Fashion That Defines the Islands

February 1, 2013 | By Natalie Tarce
Classic aloha shirts are practically a coveted island commodity.

Classic aloha shirts are practically a coveted island commodity.

One of the most visible symbols of Hawai‘i’s aloha spirit can be seen in contemporary Hawaiian fashion known as aloha wear.

Its roots can be traced back to 1820, when New England missionaries arrived in Hawai‘i. Missionary women adapted the latest fashion in order to accommodate the large size of ali’i (royalty) women. The design was then altered into a more comfortable fit, and the holoku—a loose, floor-length, long sleeved formal dress—was born. The mu’umu’u was initially a chemise worn under the holoku and it wasn’t until the 1940s with the introduction of Hawaiian prints that it was considered fit to be worn in public.

The aloha shirt that we know today did not come about until the mid-1930s. Shirtmaker Musa-Shiya first used the term in a 1935 advertisement. However, it was tailor Ellery Chun who trademarked “aloha shirt” in 1936 as tourism in Hawai‘i grew. After World War II, bolder patterns with tropical images emerged. Rayon shirts called “silkies” became popular from 1945 to 1955. By the late 1970s, designs inspired by the Hawaiian culture came about. Eventually, subdued looking “reverse print” aloha shirts were introduced and are now worn daily in the workplace.

Photos courtesy of Tori Richard

Photos courtesy of Tori Richard

Today, the shift towards island style resort wear gives aloha fashion a more cosmopolitan feel. Some aloha shirts may not necessarily feature Hawaiian prints but have various images arranged in a similar pattern as a traditional aloha shirt. Visit any clothing store in Waikiki and you will find not just traditional aloha attire but also a variety of Hawaiian print dresses, shorts and accessories inspired by the rich history of a multi-cultural society that has made aloha wear a lifestyle.

The spirit of the aloha shirt goes well beyond the wardrobe. From having a “Year of the Aloha Shirt” declared by Hawai‘i’s governor a few years ago, to the term “Aloha Friday” stemming from the approval of aloha attire being worn in the workplace during the summer months back in 1962 (and has since been a practice that encourages men to sport aloha shirts on Fridays, all year long), the impact of this beloved shirt continues to evolve.