The Legacy of Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry
The timeless beauty of Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is enhanced by a rich tradition that connects the wearer to Queen Lili‘uokalani, the Hawaiian monarchy and its close ties with England.
In 1862, news of the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, reached Hawai‘i. Soon after, mourning jewelry, which was gaining popularity in England quickly caught on in the islands. High Chiefess Lili‘u Kamaka‘eha (who later became Queen Lili‘uokalani) ordered a gold bracelet in the style of traditional Victorian black-enameled mourning jewelry with the Hawaiian phrase “Ho‘omana‘o Mau” (Lasting Remembrance) and featured designs that included feather capes to represent Hawaiian royalty. These combined styles crafted in gold with engraving and enamel in Old English script form the basis for today’s Hawaiian heirloom jewelry.
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- Laki Original 14K pink gold 12mm bangle and 14K two-tone five plumeria bangle bracelet (prices upon request). PHOTO: COURTESY LAKI
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- Laki Original 14K two-tone hibiscus ring/14K yellow and white gold combination hibiscus ring with diamond (CZ available) (price available upon request). PHOTO: COURTESY LAKI
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- Laki Original 14K Diamond Edge Rings in green and white gold, and pink and white gold (prices upon request). PHOTO: COURTESY LAKI
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- Philip Rickard Honolulu Pukalani Collection 14K white gold filigree pendant with scrolls and hibiscus flower $1,308. PHOTO: COURTESY PHILIP RICKARD
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- Philip Rickard Honolulu Ma Lama Collection 14K white gold diamond ring with maile leaf design (price upon request). PHOTO: COURTESY PHILIP RICKARD
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- Philip Rickard Honolulu Nani Koki Collection 14K multicolor gold 18mm raised name bracelet with scrolls and plumeria / hibiscus flowers with diamonds (price upon request). PHOTO: COURTESY PHILIP RICKARD
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- Maui Divers Jewelry 14K yellow-gold half-tube pendant in the large 10.6mm Plumeria Scroll & Maile Leaf cutout design $895. PHOTO: COURTESY MAUI DIVERS
Contemporary jewelers have embraced the style adored by the Queen but have also made strides in modernizing Hawaiian jewelry. The English influence remains but is subtle and now bear designs that reflect the Hawaiian culture.
Popular jewelers include Philip Rickard whose specialty includes Hawaiian wedding rings and custom-made bangles. Other stores to be found around Waikiki include Na Hoku and Laki Hawaiian Design.
At Waikiki-based jeweler Sacred Jewels of Mu, each piece begins with drawings, which are modeled into a three-dimensional program for further refinement. A wax model is then crafted before casts of gold or silver are made. In keeping with the jewelry engraving traditions from the Victorian era, master artisans hand-finish the engraving on each piece.
Hawaiian heirloom jewelry has come a long way. What started as a reflection of one woman’s sentiment has evolved into a lasting symbol of Hawai‘i’s monarchy and a way for us to commemorate significant milestones in our lives.
Maui Divers Jewelry
Multiple locations
www.mauidivers.com
Laki Hawaiian Design
Royal Hawaiian Center
2201 Kalakaua Ave.
(808) 923-2201
Philip Rickard
Royal Hawaiian Center
2201 Kalakaua Ave.
(808) 923-2983
